According to Beijing writer Eileen Wen Mooney, Beijing restaurant cooking is not what it should be. It's a sad but familiar story that I've also written about here and here. And I used to look forward to trips to Beijing - a town I think is far more progressive and quality driven in the Chinese restaurant realm, in comparison to Shanghai.Hat tip to Chris St Cavish, who writes about Chinese food (and morbid sandwiches) here. Chris and I have blathered about this topic until nearly blue in the face.
At some point, the status-driven dining habits of the Chinese needs to change. Slow food, and good techniques need to creep their way back into kitchens. It might only happen when the last shark bleeds finless on the bottom of the sea, and the last abalone is plucked from some barren forest of kelp. But still, it will be progress.