While exploring the old Port town of Kantang, which I also wrote about here, I came across the old train station that marks the end of the Southern Railroad. A little less than a century ago, trains would pull up to the station house and load up with rubber, tin and other commodities that were off-loaded in Kan Tang's port, only two blocks away. These days, a hush fills the small harbor, and trains pick up only a handful of passengers before heading north.
That afternoon, a black curtain of storm lowered fast in front of the mountains, and I was suddenly stuck in the open on my bike. It started to really pour down, so I hopped on and sped off in search of a restaurant. Just behind the station, beside an abandoned railcar, there were a dozen thatch and bamboo huts, and that's where myself and a friend took shelter. It was an Isaan restaurant - an unlikely thing to eat so far south - but they specialized in seafood, combining the wealth of fish squid and shrimp here with the sturdy seasonings of Thailand's northeast.
At that little outdoor restaurant, they also make one of the best grilled pieces of pork jowl (khor moo yang) I've tasted in Thailand. And that's saying a lot, because I order this dish a few times a week, and Thailand grills some of the best pork around. It was stunningly good - smoky and caramelized without, juicy with lots of fat woven through...
Enough with words. Take a look... isn't that beautiful?